KMK: Airbnb in Cuba

AirBNB In Cuba

The whole trip from Jose Martin to the edge of Vedado takes about twenty minutes. I had set up my Airbnb before flying. Airbnb simplifies the process of finding a place to stay. I recommend it wholeheartedly. Yet, if you want those huge five star hotels they are there to be found but you will end up paying 400 to 500 CUC a night. But why do that when you can have a much more intimate and affordable experience staying at a casa particular. What’s a casa particular? It’s a home where a Cuban family has decided to open their doors to travelers There as many types of casa particulars as there are families. Some may offer only a single room with a single bed while other families may convert most of their home for couples and even small groups. Your room may come with its own en-suite bathroom or you may end up sharing with your hosts. Often the family offer breakfast, lunch, or dinner for a few Convertible dollars (3 to 5). The ease of Airbnb is that you can find a range of casa particulars that offer as many amenities as you like some run more like hostels while others with a more typical Airbnb experience.

Of course you could also imitate my new friend Patrick and wing it. He embraces that feeling of uncertainty that comes with spontaneity much better than I ever could. His plan is to simply walk into every Casa Particular he sees until someone has a room he can rent. To be fair this is entirely possible to do. Although, his halfhearted attempts to secure a room result in a handful of rejections before he eventually rents a place from a little old granny who speaks no English but is delighted to try. Though keep in mind Patrick only found that place at around ten at night. The specter of sleeping on the streets keeps me from making such moves.

But I digress. My first Airbnb is Miss Mirta’s La Casona. It’s on San Francisco street close to the Hotel Nationale. The buildings facade is unassuming but clean and well maintained. A series of locked gates ensures you feel safe and secure. There’s an open courtyard with rooms on each side and on each floor going up to the third floor rooftop. The room I had booked has twin beds, air-con, a fridge, hot and cold running water in the shower and a TV. My brother has already come and gone, dumping his belongings and, I wager, exploring the nearby streets. I do likewise but not before checking out the third floor rooftop where meals are served. You don’t have to partake, but if you do they will keep a tab and charge you at the end of your stay. Breakfast at Mirta’s includes a carafe of coffee, toast, a small bowl of tropical fruit, fresh fruit juice and a ham, cheese & egg scramble. She’s a welcoming host and her place is comfortable. You can come and go as you please with your own set of keys.

My second Airbnb is in Trinidad. Trinidad has a very different feel than Havana. The Parque Cespedes is not the center of the city but it is a hub of activity. That’s where you’ll find the Grand Hotel Iberostar and the wi-fi. Tourists and locals sit on the benches or on the fences LED screens reflecting in their eyes. There are also a number of restaurants, shops, and markets. Streets fan out like the ridges of a sea shell. It’s all easy to navigate. Hostal La Casa Cubana sits at the beginning of Piro Guinart at no 25. It’s a one story series of sea green buildings decorated with lush tropical plants. There’ an outdoor bungalow/bar area to sip drinks or hang outside and talk. Our hosts set up my brother and I with twin beds in a sizable room. We have our own bathroom with a small but serviceable shower. There’s a fridge, an air-con, and two wall fans. The fans are a godsend. My only quibble is that the lighting is dim and the windows have no glass only shutters. Toiletries only include toilet paper so be sure you have everything else you may need. The host and his wife are lovely, gregarious folks with minimal English, but it’s enough.

Once again I had booked ahead but this isn’t necessary. As soon as you step off the bus you’ll be surrounded by women and men offering their casa particular or hostel. If none of those are to your liking then just hit the streets and you will see Signs for dozens and dozens of casa particulars. I’ve come to think that every local runs a Casa Particular. The boon of booking in person is that you may be able to haggle a better price.

My third Casa Particular is back in Havana. It’s only for one night and I’m thankful as my brother and I will have to share a double bed. The hostess luckily has a roll out mattress so we get that set up. It’s a perfectly serviceable place. The location in Vedado proper on Linea street is great. The room is spartan with a shared bathroom. Also the hostess family lives in the apartment as well. They are lovely and the candy my brother brought to give to the local kids comes in handy. Still, I’ve done airbnb a lot but never with a family with kids. Usually it’s been with singles or childless couples. Anyway, it’s something to think about when looking for a place to stay. I’m glad it’s only for a night.

My Fourth Casa Particular I have all to myself. I say goodbye to my brother in the morning. He arranges a taxi with our hostess and he’s off back to America. I forge on. This time its just down the street Linea a bit further. Here the mansions are grander but just as crumbling and faded. It’s off Callie 4 and while the building outside doesn’t look like much. The inside is just what I need: Seclusion. Jandry, my host, has an apartment that opens up into a living room area with a big balcony. Throw open the shutter doors and sunshiny blue skies come pouring in. The kitchen is compact but efficient with stove top, microwave, kettle for coffee, and a fridge. Utensils and flatware can be found in the cupboards. The bedroom is huge with it’s own bathroom shower and bidet. Who doesn’t love a bidet? It’s stylish and well kept. My only gripe is that it’s on the fourth floor of a tall building and believe me you will be feeling each of those flights. It’s worth it though for the spectacular views of Vedado from his balcony.

Overall, when it comes to casa particulars, I think I prefer my last situation the best. Yes, it’s fantastic to have your meals prepared and get local advice but I enjoy my space all to myself. I can cook, plan my day, edit photos all the while being comfortable. Maybe a mix of the two will work for you? In any case you should definitely try each style of Casa particular and leave the traditional hotels behind on your trip to Cuba!