KMK: Jeju Island: Phoenix Island Resort

I’ve finally made it to Jeju. My friend Ian and I just arrived. He told me that Jeju is known for three things: Wind, Rocks, and women. The Rocks and Wind are easy enough to understand. The shoreline is coarse and rocky and the wind howls like a starving coyote. Ian explained that the many women come from the long history of sailors and fishermen dying at sea and leaving behind widows.  These women don’t pine away at home. No, they took to the sea themselves and became known as haenyeo or lady divers. Awesome, right?

So, armed with a little history and our Kia we struck out on our first major sightseeing expedition. Ian surprised me by taking me out for a belated birthday lunch on Phoenix Island. First I have to say that I’m glad we rented a car. The island is much bigger than I imagined. Without our little Morning lime green Kia I’m afraid that we’d be at the mercy of the bus system which isn’t nearly as efficient as Seoul’s. The only downside of our little Kia is it’s LPG gas tank which probably runs on propane or some other highly combustible gas which makes any tiny fender bender a possible inferno waiting to happen.  Still, it’s a capable car and cute so what more could a guy ask for?

The Phoenix Island resort is located on Seopjikoji. Seopji is the old name for the land and Koji, in the Jeju dialect, means sudden bump in the land. This area, shaped like the Korean Peninsula, is the perfect spot for a resort. Grassy fields, sandy beaches, weatherworn bluffs and cliffs all come together in a picturesque view worthy of a master painter.

Phoenix Island contains over twenty three distinct cultural, natural, and architectural sights. The Happiness Gate is a huge stone edifice that supposedly has the power to grant visitors three wishes. Wild Beach is a curved stretch of sandy beach where guests can frolic in the water. Genius Loci is a mediation hall and media art zone built by the Japanese architect Tadao Ando. Glass House is another Ando building that sits atop the bluff as if conjured from a modern fairy tale. All in House Memorial Hall commemorates the great Korean Drama of the same name. While off the coast stands Seongsan Ilchulbong otherwise known as sunrise peak. All of this and much more waits for visitors to Phoenix Island.

Just walking around the grounds is a treat. We climbed the hill to the Light House. From there we could gaze down upon Sundol Rock. A few more adventurous visitors had climbed down to skip rocks. The deep blue surrounding sea, blustery winds, and smoldering setting sun completed a fantastic day. Despite the cold, Phoenix Island put a spell on me that I’ll never forget. Thanks Ian for the surprise!