Jose Martin Havana Airport
The flight from Fort Lauderdale into Havana lasts about as long as an episode and a half of Blackish. I flew JetBlue which reasonably offers spacious seating without an unreasonable price tag. When you land at Josi Martin Airport the first order of business is to get through immigration. A series of garish yellow and red signs, marred with peeling paint, direct disembarking travelers the proper way to go. Shoulder to shoulder stampeding visitors trample through the tightly packed corridors eventually spilling out into an immigration checkpoint.
Thankfully I breeze through immigration in a mater of minutes. Way more efficient than I expect. Whether that’s business as usual, luck or divine providence I will never know. Just be sure to have your immigration card filled out and you’ll be fine. If you pack smartly you can bypass the Baggage Claim. However, if you couldn’t or wouldn’t pack only a carry-on then prepare to wait and wait and wait. Get used to waiting. It’s the norm in Cuba so don’t get to riled up. It takes about an hour to get my baggage. Bags in hand and with nothing to declare I head into the main section of the airport into a throng of taxi drivers, hotel clerks, and eager family members clamoring for attention. I ask an almond skinned steward about currency and he points me to the second floor.
Do not go to the second floor like I do and end up waiting for twenty minutes only to learn that the second floor Currency booth only buys Cuban dollars and doesn’t sell. Though I did hear from others, much later, that the second floor booth does indeed sell Cuban dollars. So maybe try your luck if you care to or when you exit customs you can go immediately to your left out of the airport where you’ll find another Currency Exchange Booth that sells Cuban Convertibles (CUC) and Cuban Pesos (CUP). Don’t let the long snaking line of weary travelers deter you. Yes, the wait will be about an hour but it’s better to do currency exchange at the airport so you have some money in hand.
In line, waiting, I end up meeting Patrick. He’s a lanky twenty something, the color of fresh milk with an open smile and notable dose of goodwill that fellow Mid-westerners recognize easily. He’s also in Havana for a few days of exploration and fun. While waiting for our turn at the Currency Exchange taxi drivers pepper us with offers to take us to a currency exchange in town. We turn them down. I suggest you do the same. Don’t risk being stranded somewhere with no Cuban Cash in hand. Soon enough I’m inside the booth and end up changing Canadian Dollars into Cuban Convertibles ostensibly to bypass the 10% charge on American Dollars but my 500 CAD only comes to 400 CUC anyway so I’m not sure it was even worth it. Cash in hand, my new bud Patrick and I decide to split a taxi into downtown Havana.
Finding a taxi is just a matter of standing and waiting for about three seconds. A fleet of legit yellow cabs swarm the airport at all times. Drivers stalk the pavement, arms waving for tourists to come closer, voices booming out cries of “Rapido!” and “Vamonos!” That’s how we find Frijito. Be sure to have your destination address written down or easily accessible on your phone. We negotiate for twenty five Convertibles which I hear is the standard price.
In moments we speed away passing dusty old Ford automobiles spewing smoke. Frijito presses the gas, slipping easily around the slower cars like a prize fighter bobbing and weaving around punches. Billowy clouds float across the bright blue skies overhead. On either side of the road sit faded old warehouses and rusty power stations overgrown with tangles of green tropical plants. Fences of barb wire cage cracked parking lots crammed with faded cargo containers. Soon the open road narrows into tight city streets. One and two story houses, the color of strawberries, blood oranges, ripe melons and spoiled bananas sit on the road. Neglected but still hopeful the fruit colored houses await like bridesmaids time forgot. Wistful, I sigh. Frijito eases up on the gas. The taxi slips into the slow bullish rhythm of city traffic.
It takes about twenty to thirty minutes but Frijito gets us to my Airbnb ready for the day’s adventure.
I enjoyed reading this. I had to recheck myself if I got your link right, lol. But I did and just enjoyed it thoroughly. I guess, it’s easier for men to share taxis with new-found acquaintances in another country. Or it’s just me who never had this kind of adventure. Me looking forward to more about Cuba from you.
How exciting to be in Cuba! The once secluded island does seem to be the hotspot at the moment. I like that you made friends with someone at the airport and shared a cab with him! Making friends upon arrival is the way to go, great start to your trip. I’m curious about the rest of your adventures in Cuba!
Fellow mid-westerners… wait.. where are you from? I love those fellow friendly smiles I must say. As an Ohioan, I’m adept at making friends in lines and striking up conversations with ease on streets hahah Love that.
I like your style – sharing a taxi with a stranger in a foreign country! I do/would do the same! While taxis are not my preferred mode of transportation in a foreign country, I do enjoy the convenience of it, especially when they finally figure out where you’re trying to go. Can’t wait to hear about your AirBnb experience in Cuba.
Awesome post! You really took me there with you with your great writing. It’s so interesting to read an “independent travel” account of a visit to Cuba. As a Canadian, I’ve always traveled there on all-inclusive vacations, so never knew about the swarms of taxi drivers, or having to negotiate prices. It sounds just like traveling in any other developing country. I’d really love to return to see how much things have changed there. Look forward to reading your next account… 🙂
All-inclusives are a great way to relax, but I feel like you miss so much. It’s too easy to must lay back and soak up the sun instead of diving into the city streets and meeting the locals face to face. A bit of both is a great combo!
I’m heading to Cuba this June so now I know what to expect at rhe aeropuerto! Our flight is from Cancun so it’ll be short and sweet like yours was. Looking forward to reading about the rest of your adventures there and picking up some pointers. I can’t wait to ride a pink cadillac and drink mojitos while I’m there!
Love your descriptive style of writing and the metaphors that you used. Awesome tips, we’re hoping to get to Cuba at some point this year so I’ll be sure to follow your recommendations for the airport. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks, Rosie! I hope you make it soon it’s really a great trip.
Good to know that there’s a decent immigration there. In other airports, it takes ages to get through because of the long lines. It’s really important that we research about the standard price in taxi fares because some take advantages of the tourists. Thanks for your very detailed narration of your experience. Looking forward to read more! ^^
Half the fun is trying to figure out if you’re being scammed! Seriously, though I enjoyed it all and once you wise up to how much things really cost you can spot the scams pretty easily with a little street smarts savvy and common sense. 🙂
I miss Cuba; I’m definitely due for a visit! I’ve never flown out of Havana airport before though. But I have been there for a day visit. I love Old Havana!
Old Havana was definitely one of my favorite parts of the city. You can basically just wander around and marvel at the sights and sounds.
Great tips for going through Havana Airport. We have been itching to go to Cuba since they started opening up a bunch of flights from the US there! Your experience is helpful to read for when we do go through ourselves!
Get there as soon as possible! I can’t recommend it enough. You’re going to have a blast!
Keep this coming! Can’t wait to read more.
Being from Nebraska myself, my favorite line was clearly: I end up meeting Patrick. He’s a lanky twenty something, the color of fresh milk with an open smile and notable dose of goodwill that fellow Mid-westerners recognize easily.
-ahuskerinkorea
Thanks so much! Always a treat to bump into midwesterners! Cuba brought out the writer side of me.