KMK: Geoje Island

This past Buddha’s birthday I really felt the need to escape the city. Which is an odd feeling since I’m definitely a city boy at heart. Sometimes though I just feel so stifled and suffocated that I have to move, move, move and get out. So when my friend Nico mentioned getting away for the weekend I immediately decided to join him. Our original plan of traveling to Ulleng-do sank when we learned all the ferries were booked through June. Undaunted we turned our sights toward Geoje Island.

I couldn’t have imagined a better choice. I’m ashamed to say that before researching this trip I’d never even heard of Geoje. Apparently it’s Korea’s second largest island. It’s right off the coast of Busan. In  2010 the Busan-Geoje fixed link bridge was completed connecting the island to Busan city making access that much easier for folks.

My journey from Seoul to Geoje began at the Nambu Bus Terminal. The midnight express goes directly to Geoje’s Gohyeon Bus Terminal. At 36,00o KRW and a brisk four hours it’s a way down to the island that’s hard to beat.  I spent the trip down alternately napping and listening to music. However, once you arrive at Four in the morning your options are a bit limited. You can always duck into one of the many Jjimjilbang , but I opted to instead walk around to get the lay of the land. The terminal is in Gohyeon ,one of the two main cities of Geoje (Okpo being the other).  It’s surrounded by PC rooms, soju bars, hoffs, and seafood restaurants.

I took the self directed tour and wandered about eventually ending up at the docks. I took a few shots of a lovely bird, then made my way to the E-mart/CGV/Starbucks/McDonalds that seemed to be my only refuge at that ungodly hour. Shortly my friend Nico arrived and after a brief but fruitless attempt at buying bathing suits we made our way to our hotel in Okpo. One thing is for certain about Goeje: it pays to have wheels. Whether you drive a scooter or rent a car wheels are definitely a must because the taxi prices quickly add up once you hit the road.

Okpo is something like a mini Itaewon. In the the sense that it’s westerner friendly with tons of bars and restaurants that cater to the overflow of Engineers streaming out the nearby shipping yards. Those guys must have plenty of cash to burn because prices on the island are steeper than Seoul. Our hotel is called the Goeje Island Hotel which is definitely no frills in the way of names and after seeing it I completely understood. It’s a no frills hotel. I should have known when the desk clerk emailed me saying “Are you sure?” to my request to reserve a room. It’s not exactly suited for a beach bum vacation since there is no beach nearby, but there is plenty of character. Plus the room did have a Jacuzzi bathtub so that was aces.

After checking in we immediately went out for grub. We scored some Hwe Dub Bap which is basically a sushi style bimimbap. Somehow I had never had it before so I  had a nice little surprise. It was quick, delicious, and I devoured every bite. We walked around Okpo playing spot an expat while noting interesting places to stop in and try.  There are literally dozens upon dozens of bars so instead of listing them I say just check out Okpo Bars. Of all of those definitely hit up X Lounge because the owner spins wicked music. He doubles as the DJ and dabbles in his own mixed CDs as well. His music was House and dance inspired complete with the wailing Divas I love along with some eclectic mixes I’d never heard before. Also check out Bunny Boiler and We’ll Cum for the names alone.

As the day rushed by we hit up Gujora beach about mid-afternoon.  I’m not sure why we decided on Gujora, but it suited us perfectly. The beach had a motley assortment of Koreans, a few English teachers, and a couple Russian families. There wasn’t much in the way of convenience stores so bring what you need with you. There was also a couple oddly enough offering rides on the beach. On horses, not piggy back style just to be clear.  Unfortunately the water was freaking frigid. Still we waded in waist deep and then lounged on the sand for a spell.

Soon dusk was upon us and we made our way back to Okpo on the bus. Be sure to get the island specific bus car from one of the convenience stores because neither my credit cards or Nico’s T-Money worked. After freshening up we took in a Thai restaurant near We’ll Cum and then made our way to X Lounge for darts and good music. For some reason most of Okpo was dead to the world but  we figured everybody went up to Seoul for the big Buddha Celebration.

The highlight of Sunday turned out to be our excursion to Oedo island. Actually, the ferry trip itself turned out to be a treat. Even with the blustery wind and rough seas the views were fantastic. Especially when the boat pulls up alongside towering island cliffs that jut out of the ocean with barely enough space for the ferry to slip in between. It’s stunning and majestic and whets the appetite for the sights to come as you make your way to Korea’s island garden paradise.

The origins of Oedo start with Lee Chang-ho and his wife way back in 1969. The couple took a barren strip of bleak rock and transformed it into a blossoming garden of Eden with exotic and rare plants from across the globe. The gardens themselves have a distinct European flavor, abandoning any notions that a Korean botanical must adhere to a Asiatic  style or look. Instead we get Grecian statues. towering columns, and a garden that alludes to Versailles with its layout and design. The entire island is a sprawling green wonderland that truly is a unique experience to be had in Korea. It’s almost overwhelming the sheer variety of plants and flowers sustained and cultivated on Oedo.

Oedo admission: 8,000KRW

Ferry Info: 19,000KRW

Jangseungpo: + 82-55-681-6565
Wahyeon: +82-55-681-2211
Gujora: +82-55-681-1188
Hakdong: +82-55-636-7755
Dojangpo: +82-55-632-8787
Haegeumgang: +82-55-633-1352

The entire Goeje experience couldn’t be done in a weekend. The time flew by and still the list of sights that remained unseen haunted me: mongdol beach, the p.o.w camp, the windy hill. Though it just means I’ll have to return for another go at Goeje.