Typically my Buddha’s birthday celebration amounts to a trip to Insadong to take in the parade and festivities. This year though a spontaneous decision to join my friends Sonia, Renzo, Peter, Paul, Theresa, Lisa, Dele, Keith, Mekhale, Charles, and Lucia on a 3 day getaway proved to be the best decision ever.
Buddha Holiday Getaway Day 1 – Damyang Bamboo Forest
KICK ASS KOREAreason 1
My weekend adventure began innocuously enough with an early morning ride to the KTX at Seoul Station. With our friends travelling in already packed cars, it was up to Renzo and I to make our way to Gwanju by any means necessary. I ruled out renting a car, mostly because i haven’t gotten around to getting my Korean driver’s license. Bus seemed like a pain, which left the mighty KTX as the most reasonable alternative. Though getting tickets on KTX during a Korean holiday requires either Herculean patience to endure the frustration of every train being sold out or enough stamina to wake up at five am for an early morning departure. We opted for the latter.
Arriving at Seoul Station in the wee hours of the morning is like stepping into a refugee camp. It’s ground zero for the homeless in Seoul. Grim faced Ajusshis huddle around fires in tiny tin cans, sheets of cardboard serve as mattresses, and there’s a rank smell that hangs in the air. You’d never know it’s usually a clean bustling way station.
Dodging the gauntlet of sleeping bodies strewn across the steps and concrete we made it with only minutes to spare. Those minutes slowly ticked by as I tried to explain that we didn’t book the regular Korail train and therefore had no reason to go to Yongsan Station. The word reservation clicked and the clerk quickly understood we’d already booked on KTX. She printed our tickets. We hustled along, sprinting with a few other stragglers hustling to make it on board before the train pulled away. We made it. Barely.
Bags stored overhead and earphones fitted I relaxed. An early morning train is the perfect time to catch up on some sleep. Our friends had decided that the city of Gwanju would make the perfect home base for the trip. It’s smack dab in the middle, more or less, between Damnyang and Boseong. Cruising at 300 km per hour the trip from Seoul to Gwanju lasts only about three hours including a brief transfer at Cheonanasan.
Once in Gwanju we headed for the hotel everyone was staying at. The Geumsoojang Tourist Hotel is only a 15 minute walk or three minute cab ride from Gwanju station. It’s only 45,000 KRW a night. They have both Western and Korean style rooms. Their number is 062-525-211-5 and the address is 559-1 Kyelim 1 dong, dong gu, gwang-ju 501-806. I will say that the cafe is way overpriced. Sleep but don’t eat there.
After dropping our stuff off we then had to find our way to Damyang and the Bamboo. Our friends had it easy with navigation and a car, but we toughed it out with smart phones, good sneakers, and trusty bus 311. When standing facing the hotel on the main street you head to your right. Make a left at the main intersection on the corner. Go straight until you come to the overhead walkway. Cross over and then keep heading straight. You’ll cross a major intersection and then a small market on your left. Look out for the bus stop.
From the hotel to the stop is about a ten minute walk. It takes you straight to the front gate of Damyang Bamboo Forest. So, don’t get off early at Damnyang station like we did. Even if you do it’s only a 15 minute walk.
The entrance is surrounded by shops and stalls selling all kinds of bamboo products. You can easily stock up on souvenirs for friends and family. Plus a little bamboo wine tucked in your back pack couldn’t hurt either. A ski lodgesque building loomed overhead as we made our way up the steps into the forest. A measly 2,000 KRW gained us entrance into a tranquil wonderland.
The bamboo is thick. Some of the trees were thicker than my arms and legs. They towered overhead and shaded the area completely. It had been hot, but in the bamboo forest a cool breeze prevailed. We all wandered around, following the crowds while taking snap shots. Moments like this make me realize that no matter how die hard a city boy I am that some small part of me thoroughly enjoys what nature offers. It’s just as impressive as any asymmetrical skyscraper in Gangnam.
Because of Buddha’s impending birthday the park featured a performance of celebratory dancers and musicians. As we made our way to the exit I stopped for a keepsake. At the exit they have a stall set up for an ink print cloth. For 2,000 KRW you can take a
After the park we all were famished. We decided on a nearby restaurant. Of course we had to try the bamboo flavored dishes! Word of caution the further you get from the park the more reasonable the prices will be. We ordered daetongbap, rice cooked in bamboo with chunks of vegetables. It’s served in a hollowed out stalk of bamboo. We chased it all down with bamboo wine which is much better than soju though it is a little on the sweet side.
All in all it was a perfect way to kick off a trip and prepare us for the contrasting barren beauty of Yeosu Beach!
To be continued: Buddha Holiday Getaway Day 1 part 2 – Yeosu Beach
The Good:
A meditative getaway far from the hustle and bustle of city life. Also bamboo wine!
The Bad:
Crowds. You won’t be enjoying that tranquil atmosphere alone.
The Weird:
Bamboo ice cream! Check.
Prices:
Adults- 2,000 won, Students- 1,500 won, Children- 1,000 won
Hours:
9:00 ~ 19:00
Phone:
82-61-1330
Address:
Jeollanam-do Damnyang-gun Damnyang-eup Hyanggyo-ri
Website:
Directions:
See above link or my directions in the post. Alternatively you can take bus 225 from Gwanju station.
