Lumphini Park received its name after the birthplace of Buddha in Nepal. The park maintains its place as the oasis in a city sadly lacking much needed green spaces. On my way to Lumphini, around eleven in the morning, I was cautioned by a concerned citizen who insisted that I would be robbed, raped, and left for dead if I stepped foot in the park. He then graciously offered to take me to his shop instead for some tea. I demurred, politely explaining that I’d rather take my chances with the rapists.
Instead of the hot bed of seething criminals and cutthroats I instead found a sprawling green paradise complete with a lagoon. Joggers raced around the park. Families sat and picnicked under the shade of trees. Groups of elderly and middle aged men and women practiced tai chi with slow methodical movements while little kids raced around their legs.
The park’s most recognizable feature is the huge statue of King Rama VI that dominates the entrance. People leave flowers and tokens of affection at the base of the monument. I walked around for the park for about twenty minutes, trying to escape the heat with a Mocha Frappacino. I’m sorry to say that the heat won that round and I left.
However, I returned to Lumphini later that night with a local Thai man who showed me around. The park is even more impressive at night. Dozens of sweaty Thais worked out to the beat of blaring dance music while an Aerobic instructor clad in trademark lycra and leg warmers barked out instructions from a raised mini platform. Her worshippers dutifully tried to repeat every move, but some of them weren’t up to the challenge. They looked like they had fun trying, though. We kept strolling through the park and came across tennis courts, a full sized pool, and even an outdoor gym where the guys were hard at work pumping iron in tight shorts and tank tops. Maybe Bangkok could be home.
We pressed on toward the Night Bazaar where more wonders awaited though unfortunately none in tank tops and short shorts.